Asian J Beauty Cosmetol. 2007; 5(2): 119-129.
The Study For The Emulsifier and The Formation of Liquid Crystal
ABSTRACT
Emulsion that contains a multilayer structure has a similar structure with the multilayer structure
existing in the stratum corneum. Emulsion is highly effective for caring a sensitive skin and atopic
dermatitis, which a dry skin caused by the damaged stratum corneum of a skin and a reduction of
the content of ceramide in a living body, are known as the causes for. However, it is difficult to
make an end product of emulsion have the structure stably because stability becomes different, depending
on the ratio among ceramide, fatty acid (intercellularlipid), and cholesterol, on the mixture
ratio of oily components, on the mixture ratio of emulsifiers, and the mixture ratio of polyhydric
alcohol.
In this study, a multilayer structure was made by differentiating emulsifiers only without any
changes in the kinds and the ratio of other components. By doing this, an emulsifier, which makes
it easy to create lamellar liquid crystal, was developed, through which a more stable multilayer
structure could be made.
Used emulsifiers are C14-22Alcohol & C12-20Alkyl Glucoside, Lechthin & C12-16Alcohol &
Palmitic Acid, Hydrgenated Lecithin & C12-16Alcohol & Palmitic Acid, Myristyl alcohol &
Hydrogenated Lecithin & Palmitic acid & Cetearyl Alcohol & Lecithin & Glyceryl Stearate, Batyl
Alcohol & Stearic acid & Lecithin, Sorbitan Stearate & Sucrose Cocoate, Stearath 21, Stearath 2,
Cetearyl Glucoside & Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Olivate & Sorbitan Olivate.
As another experiment, this paper selected myristyl alcohol, hydrogenated lecithin, palmitic acid,
cetearyl alcohol, lecithin, and glyceryl stearate, which have the best optical aeolotropy, out of the
emulsifier made in the first experiment. And then, it made ceramide-3 of the same type as found in
the human bodies by purifying yeast. Using the components selected from the emulsifier and the
ceramide-3, it made another emulsifier and observed its aeolotropy through an optical microscope.
The emulsifier containing ceramide was found to have a greater number of clearer maltese cross of
a fixed size than the ceramide-free emulsifier.
Thispaper kept the emulsifier containing ceramide, myristyl alcohol, hydrogenated lecithin, palmitic
acid, cetearyl alcohol, lecithin and glyceryl stearate in a cycling incubator at -20℃
Keywords :
Emulsifier, mixture ratio, lamellar liquid crystal, aeolotrpy, evaporation
